The Guide to Understanding Hair Type and Porosity
When building a hair care routine, many people focus only on their curl pattern—whether they are wavy, curly, or coily. While curl shape decides how you should cut and style your hair, it tells you almost nothing about how your hair behaves with moisture. For that, you need to understand hair porosity. Porosity refers to your hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture, which is decided by the structural alignment of your hair cuticles.
Step 1: Identify Your Curl Pattern (Type 1 to Type 4)
The Andre Walker Hair Typing System categorizes hair into four main classes based on the diameter of the curl:
- Type 1 (Straight): Hair has no natural curl. It lays flat from root to tip. Sebum from the scalp travels down the shaft easily, making this type prone to oiliness.
- Type 2 (Wavy): Hair has an S-shape wave. It is divided into 2A (fine, loose waves), 2B (medium waves with some frizz), and 2C (thick, coarse waves that resemble curls).
- Type 3 (Curly): Hair features defined, spiral curls. Classified into 3A (large, shiny curls), 3B (tight ringlets with a springy texture), and 3C (corkscrew curls).
- Type 4 (Coily): Hair has tight, zig-zag curls or coils. Classified into 4A (dense, springy S-coils), 4B (sharp Z-pattern coils), and 4C (tight, fragile coils with high shrinkage).
Step 2: Diagnose Your Porosity Level
Your hair's porosity is decided by the outermost layer of the hair shaft—the cuticle. Cuticles are microscopic scales that protect the inner core. They fall into three main profiles:
Low Porosity (Tight Cuticles)
The cuticle scales lay flat, overlap tightly, and resist opening. Water beads up on the surface and hair takes hours to dry. Products sit on top, making hair prone to buildup. Requires warmth to open cuticles during conditioning.
Medium Porosity (Normal Cuticles)
The cuticles are slightly raised, allowing moisture to enter and escape normally. Hair holds styles well, dries in a moderate timeframe, and accepts products easily. Requires simple maintenance to maintain balance.
High Porosity (Raised/Damaged Cuticles)
The cuticles are raised, chipped, or have gaps, usually from chemical treatments or heat damage. Hair absorbs water instantly but loses it just as fast, leaving strands dry and frizzy. Requires heavy oils and proteins to seal the gaps.
The Scientific Float Test
To test your hair's porosity at home:
- Clarify a single strand. Wash a fallen strand of hair with dish soap to remove all styling oils and silicones, then dry it.
- Place in water. Drop the clean strand into a glass of room-temperature water. Let it sit undisturbed for 5 minutes.
- Analyze the position. If the strand floats on top, you have low porosity. If it hovers in the middle, you have medium porosity. If it sinks to the bottom, you have high porosity.
Understanding both your curl pattern and your porosity level is the key to healthy, balanced hair. Select your wash-day shampoos, creams, and oils based on these structural properties to avoid damage and minimize frizz.
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